Travel Trailer Insulation Options: Keeping The Chill Away
For those who've spent a night or two inside a travel trailer, they know very well that the inside is colder than the outside, even during the day. The cold can literally affect your health if you don't do anything about it. You have to learn how to prepare your recreational vehicle for the winter season so as to make the living areas comfortable and also heat-efficient.
When you insulate properly, you also enjoy the benefit of your water heater running less, thus going slow on your propane reserves.
Here's the most critical lesson you have to learn about how to do it properly:
Your windows are the first centre of focus when carrying out travel trailer insulation tasks. Most factory-installed curtains don't hold up well to insulation, and may not serve you appropriately during a cold season.
The first step to keeping the inside of your travel trailer warm is to replace the existing ones with functional heavy weight curtains. It is recommended that you use acrylic polar fleece since this material shows good insulation elements, plus it is also easy to work with.
There's no need to hem the edges of the curtain since acrylic fleece does not fray.
A lot of heat escape through the windows. That's the reason you should look for an effective yet practical solution for your travel trailer. You can use double-sided, heavy duty transparent tape to cement plastic sheeting on windows, and especially those facing the Northern side.
The spaces between the glass and plastic sheeting must also be sealed using one inch foam pieces (if the windows are not used for lighting purposes). The foam material enhance insulation and also absorb moisture.
Another source of heat loss in your travel trailer is the floor itself. If you don't have a trailer skirting, your floor is guaranteed to be chilly during the night. You can use plywood to get this job done. The wood should be cut in appropriate pieces that fit the floor precisely.
Once you're through with fitting the plywood, you should paint both sides to ensure they don't succumb to moisture. You can also custom-cut some of the wood in such a way that they feature hinged doors for accessing under-trailer spaces. This is very important because most travel trailers have essential components located under the trailer itself.
The only challenge you're likely to encounter when skirting your travel trailer is when doing it around the wheels. However, with a little bit of creativity, you can apply this material on existing loopholds. You're also going to eliminate your fold-out stairs to create way for skirting all visible areas around the bottom of the trailer. You might have to temporarily suspend your fold-out stairs, or even replace them with nearby rocks.
Once the skirting is complete, you need to bury the trench to stabilize the entire structure. This skirting is essential since it prevents the trailer (now a home) from swaying in the wind, plus it keeps the floor resistant to the cold. You should end up with a bottom that is relatively climate-controlled -- the ideal temperature for storing things such as batteries and other items.
Sealing the ceiling vents
Whereas roof vents are a must have during hot weather, they can still be an avenue where cold enters/heat escapes your travel trailer. That's why you should customize pillows to fit in the vents temporily during the day.
Use acrylic fleece, one inch foam, reflective insulation and a hot glue gun. Reflective insulation is applied on the top-side of the pillow. These pillows will moderate the inside temperature of your travel trailer, and even make it comfortable during the day and night.
If your door is made of single panel glass, it doesn't add to your insulation efforts, so you might need to work extra hard to improve its heat retention capabilities. Again, it's recommended that you use acrylic fleece curtains (floor length) to cover your doors where necessary.
Because travel trailers are not generally well insulated, you should be actively looking for loopholes and insulating them. Drafty holes are another culprit here. To seal them, you can use something basic such as grocery plastic bags. Anything with good insulative characteristics will do the trick for you.
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